Tirupati: the spiritual capital of Andhra Pradesh (state in India), and one of the holiest sites in India. (I highly recommend reading about this city before reading further. I'll give a small summary about the city anyway.) Tirupati is a city at the bottom of the Seshachalam Hills, in Andhra Pradesh. Tirumala is a town at the top of those hills. Tirumala is the most visited holy-place in the world; about 50,000-100,000 visitors a day and up to 500,000 on special occasions. The basic history is that the Hindu Gods: Sri Rama, Sita Devi, and Lakshmana resided here for sometime. Then, the town was established in 6th century AD, and continuously grew with the help of various kingdoms.
Above and beyond all of that, the Tirumala Vekateshwara Temple is what people come to see. There is so much history, holiness, and practice behind this temple and town, everything about it is astonishing.
To get up to Tirumala, people either take a bus, their own vehicles, or walk up 3550 steps (about 9km or 5.6 miles). Walking up could be the best hike of your life. For some people, it's the greatest number of stairs they've climbed in a day. For others, it could the most auspicious or accomplished day of their life. Just... mentally prepare yourself.
Up on the mountains, right in the middle, there's a white colored temple. See it? Hmm? That's where we're going. The only rule is no shoes. We're going barefoot ladies and gentleman!
You'll start at the bottom at a place called Alipiri. Here you can drop off any luggage and belongings. Before climbing the first step, you'll say your prayers and wishes. Now in the beginning, you're full of energy, so you may end up going faster than you need to. And it's not a race so just take your time. By the way, this whole adventure could take a minimum of three hours. You see those red and yellow marks on the stairs? Some people smear a red and yellow powder (which has religious significance) on each every single step. Other people even light a small candle on every single step.
This is what the stairs look like pretty much up to the top. There's a roof above you the whole way up. Apparently there are lights at night too. There are even prayers you can say while you're walking up. (it's the yellow paint on the pillars on the left and right side of the the stairs.) I realized it halfway through the climb...
step 1000
Up to this point, you'd be pretty tired. You would be thirsty, maybe hungry, who knows. Most people start climbing early in morning, so you'd have reached this point around breakfast or lunch time. Don't worry about food because every like 200 steps, there are water/food shops. Make sure you have money because you'll be loading up on refreshments and food fast. Bathrooms, I wouldn't say they're the cleanest, you know?
It's actually super fun to walk up, especially if you go with a big group like we did. We had 20+ people in our group, so it was fantastic. This is the view somewhere between steps 1000 and 2000. It gets even better the farther you go. Another thing, I recommend you don't carry anything with you. You can check in belongings at the bottom, and buses will bring it to the top. I had my camera bag with me, and it was a nuisance by the end.
step 2000
Yay! The hard part is over! Now comes the serious walking part. The stairs start to level off and you start walking with a few steps occasionally. At one point, you end up walking on the road next to cars for about a kilometer.
The wildlife while walking up is wild. You'll definitely see some monkeys somewhere along the way,. You'll even pass by a small zoo with a few animals in it.
It was a great endeavor for my body to go through. It was burning hot and humid while the sun shone down to make the floor too hot to stand on for long. This was the view on one side if while you're walking on the road. The path on the road still has the roof and everything, but you're just walking next to cars who are either going up or down the hill.
This is the end of the walk on the road. We took a 20 minute break here, just to relax. There's a beautiful view right on the left here, and its great for pictures. Up ahead are a 1000 more steps, and I'd say its exhausting. There are only steps until you reach the top, no more walking, so take it slow.
This is the start of step 2800, and it's the start of people climbing up on their knees, called the "mokalla parvatham". It's optional... In this picture, you can see people start to climb up on their knees at the bottom left, but I didn't passed anyone who actually finished on their knees.
It's a little hard to see in this picture, but there are rocks stacked on top of each other, everywhere. No, it's not naturally formed, people actually stack them for a reason. In truth, it's pretty cool because people start stacking at the very bottom of the hill, even before the first step. It continues all the way past the last step. It's amazing because I tried looking for rocks not stacked, and I couldn't find a single one. That's how many stacks there were. I learned the people who stack climb the hills to wish for a better life and they stack the stones in hopes of a house better than the ones they own.
step 3000
530 more steps to go! I took on a personal challenge to not sit down anywhere during the climb, and I didn't until I passed the very last step. It felt so good to sit down after standing and walking for 4.5 hours.
On the very last step, you do a small prayer and then you're done! Wohooo!! From there, you can either walk to the Venkateswara Temple (that's what most people do), go to eat something (that's what we did), or go to your hotel room and freshen up.
We went to the Venkateswara temple after eating and freshening up at the hotel room. I've been to the temple before, so I remembered the extreme rush inside. Let me just tell you how powerful the temple is. Thousands and thousands of people go to the temple each day right? And the temple can't expand to fit everyone everyday right? It's probably big enough to fit mayyybe 300 people at a time. With thousands going in and only a few hundred allowed inside, there's bound to be a waiting line. We went at night so we only had to wait for two hours. I've heard stories of our cousins waiting for 4 or 6 or even 8 hours to get inside the temple! Beyond all of that, you only get to see the God for 30 seconds max because there's going to be pushing and shoving. Haha, the pushing and shoving is ridiculous when you're inside the temple. Our rule is, if someone pushes you, you push them back harder! ;) But 3550 steps later, we're just all here for the religious part.